SELECTED TOPICS IN FINCH NUTRITION
By
Dr Danny Brown BVSc(Hons) BSc(Hons)MaCVSc (Avian Health)
It seems odd that the primary life supporting
component of a finches existence is often the part that aviculturists will try
to cut corners with. Without a suitable diet, birds will not perform as we
expect them to. This is as relevant with undernurition as it is with
overnutrition. What is about to be presented is a critical (and often somewhat cynical)
review of some components of finch nutrition that seem to always cause some
confusion.
What does a finch need to eat ?
The short answer to this is that nobody really knows.
Critical examination of the wild diets of finches is limited to a few species
and often at selected times of the year. For the majority of finches we are
left with the blind hope that “finches are all the same” , a fact that we know
is not true. How then do we design a diet for a finch collection and cater for
everybody. ??. How do we do this without the need to spend all day preparing
this “wild” diet??.
Firstly, lets look at the basic requirements of the
“average” finch and then look at where aviculturists often lose their way.
Carbohydrates are present in adequate quantities in
most foods that we offer to finches and therefore are not a limiting factor in
the development of finch diets.
Proteins are required for maintenance and growth in
all birds. Most literature suggests a maintenance protein level of 8-10% and a
growth requirement of 18-25%. It is obvious from this that a maintenance diet
is therefore not going to be suitable for raising young which require higher
protein levels. Excessive protein levels may be well tolerated by some birds
but potentially can cause problems in birds with underlying kidney disease.
Fats are usually required at a level of 8-15% but many
seed diets will provide fats at greater than 40%. Rarely would a deficiency of
fats occur but excessive fat intake is common. Fats are primarily needed to supply
energy and fat soluble vitamins.
Seed is considered the staple diet of many finch
species. Seed, however< is realistically a very poor diet in many aspects
and may not even meet the basic maintenance requirements of most species.
Seed is generally deficient in protein , unbalanced
with regards to essential amino acids (particularly lysine, methionine, glycine
and proline), marginal or deficient in calcium, lacks precursors for the
metabolism of vitamin A, variably unbalanced with regards to phosphorous,
sodium, manganese, zinc, iron, iodine, selenium and B vitamins and generally
excessive with regards to fats.
Birds are not generally capable of selecting there own
balanced diets, and like humans, will often selectively consume inappropriate
components in excess. This is particularly true of high fat seeds which are
often selectively and excessively consumed as a means of attempting to consume
excessive energy to compensate for missing proteins and energy in other parts
of the diet. High fats seeds are NOT preferred just because they taste better.
Providing a seed mix or individual seeds in there own dishes therefore provides
no specific benefits as at the end of the day we are simply making it harder or
easier for a bird to eat an innapropriate diet.
Specific Misconceptions/Theories in Finch nutrition
1. Seeds vs crumbles.
Recent efforts have been made to convert all
aviculturists onto pelleted or crumbled diets as the ultimate alternative to
seeds. Whilst I am a very strong supporter of these ideas I am also aware of
their limitations. Crumbled based diets are design to provide the exact
nutrition needs of the “average” finch and to eliminate those deficiencies and
excesses that occur when feeding seed. Crumbled diet are presented in a size
and shape that makes them generally palatable and easy to consume. They are
more cost effective as there is no waste component (i.e no husks). They are now
readily available to most aviculturists. Why then are we not all feeding
crumbles.??.
Primarily, most aviculturists are resistant to change
and always looking for the cheapest option. Price per kilogram is often more
important than quality or actual real benefit to the bird. The initial higher
price per kilogram is the first deterrent (but remember there is 60% less waste
so the cost really evens out at the end). Tradition plays a large role in
resistance to formulated diets. “My father fed nothing but seed and weetbix for
40 years so why do we need to change”??. As time goes by we learn that most of
our traditional management techniques can be improved upon and are often
responsible for many of the problems that we take for granted. Not all birds
will accept crumbles with open arms (or is it wings). Some birds will still
step over the crumble dish to get to the seed bowl. Remember that this is
mainly ingrained learnt behaviour and the birds are not “intelligently” seeking
the better diets, just what they are used to. Other species will consume
crumbles and ignore their seed dish.
What is the answer??. To ignore the benefits of
crumbles in the face of knowing the deficiencies of seed is in my opinion
dietary cruelty. I feel that all aviculturists owe it to their birds to provide
a diet that offers to be more balanced that what they are currently FORCED to
eat. A diet comprising at least 50% crumbles is a good start. In some birds,
particularly cabinet bred or indoor aviary birds a diet of 80-90% crumbles is
more realistic. REMEMBER that this is MAINTENANCE diet only unless a specific
“breeder crumble “ is selected. Extra supplements will still need to be fed to
breeding birds.
2. Homemade diets vs commercial preparations
One of the more frustrating aspects of advising diets
to aviculturists is the misconception that the quality of the diet is directly
proprtional to the number of ingredients. “A diet with 60 ingredients must be
10 times better than a diet with 6 ingredients”!!!. WRONG !!!.
The more complex diet may be more balanced but may
also be unbalanced.
Most breeders are more concerned with how impressive
the mix looks than if it is actually better for the birds. It takes a complex
computer program to determine the dietary breakdown of a diet with 10
ingredients, yet bird breeders can often miraculously “guarantee” the dietary
benefits of their diet based on how “it looks in the dish”. The smaller the number of ingredients of
known nutritional value that are provided, the more control you have over that
diet. My own preference is to use specific formulated ingredients that can
“guarantee” to provide what is on the label. I then mix this with a select few
ingredients to provide for texture and additional greens. Do not let somebody
tell you your diet is inferior because it has less ingredients.
If using commercial preparations, purchase from a
respected source. Open bagged, unlabeled products may as well be talcum powder
as you have no proof of nutritional analysis. For many of these products it is
unlabelled because it has no nutritional basis for its development. It simply looks
good in the bag. If you use these products then have no expectations of
quality.
3. Protein levels.
A common target for finch breeders is to “get as much
protein into them as possible”. This is not a particularly useful endeavour as
we can see above that the actual protein requirements for growth are not that
excessive. The commonest problem is that a breeder will maintain a poor overall
diet and then expect a protein supplement of 35% or better to make everything
ok. There are several flaws in this method. If the bird consume only 10 % of
its diet as protein supplement with an otherwise poor 90% diet it will at most
only increase the dietary protein by 3-4% as it is diluted down. It is better
to feed a good maintenance diet and allow the birds to feed on a good quality,
palatable supplement of 25-27% protein mixed with a food that is consumed
avidly such that it consists of 50% of the breeding diet (or less if live food
is also fed). This can potentially increase the protein levels of the diet by
10-12%. It is important to note that excess protein is not necessarily utilised
by the bird and is more likely to be dumped by the bird as protein waste
(urates - the white part of the droppings) . In a healthy bird on good
nutrition this poses no problem but in an unhealthy bird in may place excessive
strain on the kidneys (where protein waste is metabolised). Another problem
with extremely high protein supplements (e.g. turkey starter, soybean meal) is
that they are often high in fats as protein levels this high can only remain
stable in the presence of higher fat levels.
Many of the very high protein supplements are less
palatable so actual consumption may be much less than expected.
4. Soak it, boil it or sprout it ???????
Modifying seeds to increase their nutritional value
incites much debate. The preparation of the product may carry with it risks
associated with hygiene issues. The preparation may not improve the seed at
all. So what are the benefits ??. I believe the major benefits of “Modified
seeds” are reduced manipulation time for the parent birds, their function as a
supplement carrier and improved nutrition with sprouted seeds. This can be
summarised as follows :
Boiled seed -
softer seed, excellent carrier for powdered or liquid supplements, rapid preparation,
minimal hygiene risk, possible nutrient leaching/loss as seed is “dead”..
Soaked seed
- softer seed, excellent carrier for powdered or liquid supplements, slower
preparation, some hygiene risk, no improvement nutritionally.
Sprouted seed
- softer seed, excellent carrier for powdered or liquid supplements, slowest
preparation, some hygiene risk, improved nutrition as plant carbohydrate is
converted to plant protein.
Hygiene can be improved dramatically by the use of
household bleach at the FIRST step of soaking in soaked or sprouted seed. This
gives much better results than rinsing in bleach later. Bleach residues are not
an issue as all chlorine is released from the mixture as chlorine gas leaving
behind NaCl (Sodium chloride - salt water).
A further improvement is to heat the mix on a nursery
heat pad (as per David Whites method 2002 convention) and this will produce
sprouted seed in the time previously needed for soaked seed production.
The activity as a carrier is in my opinion the most
important and allows the aviculturist to add
essential fatty acid supplements (Breeding Aid), vitamins, calcium,
trace mineral supplements (Tracemin Soluble) and protein supplements in
quantities with an expectation that they will be consumed in total.
4. Austerity diets
This is perhaps one of the more abused husbandry
methods that I have seen. The theory is sound - feed the birds on a lower plane
of nutrition during the period that you wish them not to breed and increase the
diet quality when you want them to breed. In practicality what happens is the
birds are maintained on a plane of malnutrition and are then expected to
respond to full breeding condition once nutrition is restored. The danger of
this is that these birds are not physically capable of sustaining breeding
activity if malnourished in the austerity period.
AN AUSTERITY PERIOD IS NOT A PERIOD OF SEED AND WATER
ONLY. THE DIET DURING THIS PERIOD MUST BE COMPLETELY BALANCED BUT OF LOWER
PROTEIN THAN THE BREEDING DIET.
Austerity periods aim to mimic the sudden appearance
of improved feed and the breeding stimulus that this creates. In reality unless
the diet is completely balanced all year round it will provide no benefits
over and above what can be achieved by maintaining seasonal breeding pairs
together all year round on a stable diet.
If your only aim is to rest breeding birds you will
achieve more by separating the sexes or moving the pair to a holding cage
although I am yet to see benefits with this approach either. Exceptional
breeding birds may “burn out” if not allowed a rest but ultimately if nutrition
is suitable this is a more significant influence on their longevity.
My recommendation is that if you wish to rest birds
from breeding or maintain them on a lower plane of nutrition out of season then
this is where crumbled diets can be utilised to their best as you can provide a
complete balanced nutrition at maintenance level with little effort.
5. Oils seeds
This is a personal bugbear of mine. Tradition tells us
that Fringillid finches (canaries, siskins etc.) must be fed on a seed mix
containing oil seeds (rape, niger, linseed, crushed sunflower) or they will
perish from lack of fats in their diet. This tradition stems from the feeding
of these predominantly European birds in temperate European countries. When we
bring these species in subtropical or tropical areas in cannot be justified
that these birds must continue to be fed these diets. Neither canary seed mixes
or extra oil seeds (particularly crushed sunflower) are needed in these parts
of Australia. Sure, they love to eat it but it is because of its high
energy/high fat content (and the subsequent compensatory feeding as described
above) that they gorge it, not because they need it to survive. These feeding
practises are akin to the hideous practise of feeding cockatoos on sunflower
seed diets. Do yourself a favour and treat these birds as finches, not
canaries. \
6. Oversupplementation
Just as there are minimum requirements for certain
vitamins and minerals in the diet, there are also maximum safe levels. When
using vitamin, mineral, calcium or fatty acid supplements please follow
directions carefully. Overdosing is possible particularly with vitamin A. The
old habit of using cod liver oil should be discouraged for this reason as it is
rarely measured to any calculated dose rate. In addition it may contain high
levels of an enzyme called gizzerosine that may predispose to gastric ulcers
and high levels of unsaturated fats which deplete vitamin E levels through a
chemical transformation called oxidation.
Vitamin A toxicity has been implicated in the deaths
of particular coloured mutation forms of gouldian finches (blues) and is
suggestive that this colour form may genetically be predisposed to kidney
damage from Vitamin A toxicity or have less tolerance to it.
Excessive Calcium supplementation can also be toxic
causing growth deformities in young birds and constant high level
supplementation may “switch off” calcium uptake mechanisms in adults (which
will actually render them more prone to problems like egg binding). Follow
directions carefully.
7. Feeding your food.
Live foods are an important part of finch husbandry.
Preparing your live foods for feeding can lead to problems.
Maggots have been implicated in several problem
scenarios. Prepared properly however they pose no more risk than a birds face
when feeding on seed on a natural earth floor. If maggots are provided to the
birds in a form where milk soaked substrate is still present then food contamination
organisms are likely to be present. The growing substrate should be at a point
where maximum digestion has taken place and should resemble dark brown sawdust.
NEVER add more moist substrate to this. This will probably cause major
arguments but so be it.
Some breeders are concerned about the concept of
lactose intolerance associated with breeding maggots using milk powders. If the
substrate is fully digested than this should not be an issue. Some people will
not breed maggots as they find it hard to justify purchasing large bags of calf
milk powder. The simple answer to both of these is to use good old fashioned
liquid milk in a low lactose formula (after all, milk powder + water = milk).
If you want to increase calcium, use high calcium milk. If you buy 1 litre UHT
bottles you can have it on the shelves in the bird room at all times.
Most people breed there maggots in wheat bran. The
small danger with this is that bran can at times contain high levels of a
chemical called phytates which if ingested can bind calcium in the birds body
and make in unuseable. The alternative to this is to use coarse pollard or mill
run which contain less phytates and have the added benefit of containing about
10% protein, resulting in the reduction in the amount of milk needed (milk is
using as a protein source by the growing maggots).
Phytates are also an issue when mealworms are grown in
wheat bran. Pollard or mill run can be used as a substitute here.
Gut loading is a concept that has been embraced by
some keepers without full understanding of the concept. Gut loading is the term
used to describe the feeding of higher quality (higher protein or higher
calcium) diets to the live foods before presentation to the birds so that the
bird is eating the insect and it’s better quality gut contents. This
concept was designed as a means of improving the usefulness of poorer quality
foods such as mealworms. It has however been abused as a means of “pumping up
the protein”. This has several disadvantages. One overlooked problem is that
insects are animals too and super high protein diets may actually be toxic to
the insects metabolic processes resulting in slower insect growth and live food
dying off before being fed. More
importantly, the nature of insects to eat what they are given means that foods
which may not otherwise be eaten in large volumes by birds may be packaged in
each and every insect they eat. A potential example of this is the use of
soybean meal as a final growth feed for maggots. This results potentially in
young birds being fed maggots with gut fill of 40% protein and potentially high
levels of concentrated phyto-oestrogens. Anecdotal evidence suggests that this
can lead to almost epidemic low fertility in those birds eating large
quantities of “soya-maggots”.The basic rule should be that you should only gut
load with foods that you would be happy for the birds to eat of their own
accord (and only if they are likely to provide benefits over your regular
growing medium).
8. What does an Avian Vet feed to his finches ???
I don’t propose to be the best finch breeder but I
hope that I provide my birds with the best that I can supply and I believe that
my diet is well balanced. I don’t have a lot of spare time so my feeding regime
is simple and uncomplicated. It simply doesn’t need to be any more complicated
to get the results that I am happy with. My own feeding regime is as follows:
Maintenance diet (supplied ad lib) - Seed and Seed Alternatives
* Mixed finch seed
* Vetafarm Finch and Budgie Crumbles
Breeding diet (supplied fresh daily) - Live Food and Live food alternatives
* Maggots - bred in mill run and low lactose UHT milk.
* Mealworms - to larger species only - gut loaded with
chick starter crumbles
* Crickets/Wood Cockroaches - large species only,
breeding time only - gut loaded with chick starter crumbles
* Soft food mix comprising boiled or sprouted seed
(depending only on how hectic my week has been), Passwell Finch Soft Food Mix,
commercial frozen peas/corn/capsicum mix, chopped endive/silverbeet/green leafy
stuff in season, pure Spirulina powder (B-carotene and dietary pigment
supplement), Vetafarm Tracemin Soluble (trace mineral supplement), Vetafarm
Soluvet (vitamin supplement), Vetafarm Breeding Aid (Essential fatty acid
supplement) and Vetafarm Calcivet (calcium supplement). The seed , peas/corn
etc. and supplements are mixed up once per week and stored refrigerated. The
finch soft food and chopped greens are added immediately before feeding.