QUESTION 1) From a Vets viewpoint what things in a finch aviary are potentially threatening to a birds health, so that an adjustment could be made ??

ANSWER 1)

There are many aspects of aviary design that can lead directly or indirectly to injury and illness in birds. Some of the most common “husbandry –related” disorders are as follows :

1. Curiosity not only killed the cat but it has been the downfall of many a finch. Any small gap is a potential death trap for an inquisitive finch. A common site is any small hole that may allow a bird to fit between the aviary wire and any shadecloth/plastic sheeting that may be covering it. The birds will see light through the gap and squeeze into it (usually from the floor level). Their natural response is then to flutter upwards to apparent freedom where they quickly exhaust themselves and ultimately many will die. Another site is when wire netting is attached over colourbond or corrugated metal sheeting. The small gaps in the sheetng profile are just small enough to attract a finch (maybe as a potential sheltered nest site) but not enough for the bird to turn and manouver back out again. Also beware of open topped vertical pipes (e.g a piece of water pipe that you put green seeding grasses into.) The answer is simple. Close all small gaps. If you see and gap and think ”no way , a finch can’t be that stupid” then close that gap first as it will be the one that gets a finch jammed in it tomorrow.

2. Wire hooks have numerous uses around the aviary such as cuttlefish holders, perch supports and something to spike a piece of apple on for your softbills. Unfortunately they can often form a common death trap when birds inadvertently slip their legs rings over them. They then struggle and either beat themselves to death in their attempts to escape or twist around until their leg is fractured or twisted right off. I could argue for days over the pro and cons of legs rings but if you do choose to use them simply use wire that is 2-3 times the thickness of the birds leg or fold all end back onto themselves to form a broad loop.

3. Compost heaps sound like great ideas in theory – free live food, somewhere “natural” to pick around and don’t the birds love them. All of these benefits do come at a real cost however. When a bird is picking through this smorgasbord it will inevitably at some stage pass faeces into the compost heap. If those faeces contain the eggs of certain common parasitic worms then that bird has just delivered the parasite eggs directly to the insect host that carries these parasites to their next victim. So, compost heaps act as reservoirs for parasite infections and are best avoided altogether.

4. Vermin and predators are a constant threat. A properly designed aviary will minimise their impact so always consider things such as rat walls around the aviary perimeter, electric fences around the roof line and 8 mm wire all over. I am yet to truly see a “vermin proof” aviary but every bit of effort helps.

5. Heavy Metal Poisoning (HMP) associated with the consumption of lead and/or zinc or there oxides are realistically far less common in finch aviaries than in parrot aviaries (or we simply overlook it as most birds die quite quickly). Anytime we replace an area of damaged wire, put up a new wall or start with a whole new aviary we should first treat the wire to “superoxidise” it so that the white powdery oxides are less likely to form on the wire surface. Finches are unlikely to be strong enough to pick of galvanising “dags” off the wire so scraping these off is less of a priority than in a parrot aviary. Aviary can be treated by wetting it down with undiluted white vinegar, leave it to sit for 10 minutes and then scrub it off vigorously with a stiff brush and some water. Repeat this at least 4-5 times. This will “reduce” the likelihood of HMP but cannot be guaranteed to make the aviary safe.

6. Water and food bowls are often the most common source of infection within an aviary and rightly so. They are visited by every bird in every aviary multiple times each day. They are walked in, defecated in and bathed in and well as providing the sole source of feed and water. The type of container used will greatly influence the ability of that container to act as a reservoir of infection. Bowls made of porous materials (wood, terracotta, any plastic or unglazed ceramics) are highly likely to develop resident bacterial and/or yeast infections in their walls. Glass, glazed ceramics or stainless steel are much safer. Also avoid dishes with intricate ribs, patterns or odd shapes that make cleaning impossible.

7. Automated watering systems make life much simpler but can act as an important source of bacterial infection within an aviary , particularly if black poly pipe is used. If water is held with the pipes once the flow has stopped then bacteria can multiple rapidly in this fluid medium. If the water is also heated (because it is in a black pipe) then this will occur more rapidly. An easy answer (and an alternative to all copper piping) is to always have the inlet pipe higher than the outlet pipe. When water flow is stopped, gravity draws all water out of the pipes so that they remain “empty” when not in use.

These are all simple concepts but if overlooked can make a big difference to your aviary success rates.

QUESTION 2) Is there something that can be given to finches to calm them down a little when transporting them and is this recommended ??

ANSWER 2)

Getting your birds from A to B safely and happily is always a priority. Nobody wants to purchase a bird only to have it’s trip home cause it injury or kill it. There are no “calming” agents or sedatives that are recommended for this purpose but cage design will cater for most problems. Carry cages should be large enough for the bird being transported. For finches, at least 2 bird lengths x 2 bird lengths is a basic recommended size. The smaller the cage the poorer the ventilation so take this into account. Excessively large cages will allow birds to bash around and can result in greater injuries. Make feed and water bowls accessible. Finches often feed when stressed as a means of “diverting” their anxiety elsewhere. If they have to climb high in the cage to a small food bowl to do this then they probably won’t bother and may go hungry. Covering the floor with seed is often a better idea. Water bowls should also be placed on the floor and should be wide and shallow rather than small and deep. The old technique of using cotton wool or sponge in the water bowl to prevent spillage is a good idea but make sure the water is still accessible and not hidden under the sponge/cotton wool. To calm the birds the best thing is to darken the cage. This can be done by covering the wire in shade cloth, light cheese cloth or muslin, fly wire (always the fibreglass type, not the aluminium as small birds can rip beak tips off if they get caught in the aluminium type wire) or a ventilated wooden door. If the bird species is particularly flighty e.g. weavers, a lightly padded cage roof may also be beneficial.

Putting the birds onto a Probiotic product (beneficial bacterial culture) a few days before and a few days after transport will also help to reduce stress associated with dehydration when the bowels normal inhabitants are thrown in turmoil with the stress of transportation.

Finally, just one note of warning. A aromatherapist friend of mine once though that a liberal dose of a “calming” oil (I think it was lavender) would be helpful to the birds whilst travelling. Unfortunately all birds died as a result of respiratory failure on the way home as they were overcome by the aromatic fumes. The very efficient respiratory system of birds makes them acutely sensitive to any vapours so DO NOT USE THEM IN CLOSE PROXIMITY TO ANY BIRD FOR ANY REASON.